Alpine Ice Climbing

The best season for Alpine Ice Climbing is late winter and spring. The high glaciers provide access to the country’s best alpine climbs. The Fox Glacier / Te Moeka o Tuawe neve with a base at Pioneer Hut offers a mix of short technical routes and longer classic outings such as the South Face of Douglas. Alternatively, the eastern side of the divide and the Tasman Saddle Hut on the Tasman / Haupapa Glacier provides a base for the East Face of Mount Walter.

Classic Alpine Ice Routes

Douglas Peak (3077m)

The South Face of Douglas Peak is one of the Southern Alps most aspired to ice climbs. Based out of Pioneer Hut the peak is one of the most dominant peaks of the Fox Glacier / Te Moeka o Tuawe. The route has a crux of water ice grade 3 and is either descended by abseil or by traversing over the peak.

Mount Walter (2095m)

Just shy of 3000m, Mount Walter is a prominent peak accessed from the Tasman / Haupapa Glacier. The East Face offers a variety of routes including the popular ‘Ice Cream’ a direct and sustained route with 9 steep pitches of snow and ice climbing.

Mallory (2756m) and Barnicoat (2800m)

Mallory and Barnicoat offer a variety of short ice climbs. Worthwhile objectives in their own right or warm-ups for longer objectives on the main divide. Accessed from Pioneer Hut.

What to Expect

These routes require previous mountaineering and recent ice and mixed climbing experience to ensure efficient and safe climbing.

Get in touch to discuss preparation and custom itineraries for these classic outings. This may include ice climbing at Wye Creek or the Remarkables.