Pioneer Hut is accessed from the Fox Glacier township on the West Coast.
From Pioneer Hut it is a long and demanding route and can involve a bivi enroute.
![Wanaka Mountain Guides [] Mount Tasman Climb](https://wanakamountainguides.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2026/02/IMG_4558-721x957.jpg?crop=1 "Horokoau / Mount Tasman Climb 1")
New Zealand 3000m Peaks
Horokoau / Mount Tasman Climb
Overview
Standing as the second-highest summit in the Southern Alps, Mount Tasman is widely considered the most beautiful and sought-after alpine objective in New Zealand. The North Shoulder route offers a classic, high-altitude expedition traversing the Main Divide from Pioneer Hut on the Te Moeka o Tuawe / Fox Glacier.
This magnificent journey up the North Shoulder takes climbers over the summit of Lendenfeld Peak and across the Marcel Col, offering unparalleled views of both the Tasman Sea and the Mackenzie Basin. in recent seasons, the formation of an ice cliff above Engineer Col has added a technical crux to the approach, making expert guiding and seasonal timing more critical than ever.
This magnificent journey up the North Shoulder takes climbers over the summit of Lendenfeld Peak and across the Marcel Col, offering unparalleled views of both the Tasman Sea and the Mackenzie Basin. in recent seasons, the formation of an ice cliff above Engineer Col has added a technical crux to the approach, making expert guiding and seasonal timing more critical than ever.
Equipment
For advice on selecting gear for summer ascents, check out our Knowledge Base.
Difficulty & Fitness
Technical Skills
We only accept clients for an Mount Tasman ascent who have climbed with us before on other technical ascents or have significant transferable experience.
Ice Climbing
Climbers must have a proven record of steep snow and ice climbing and ability to move efficiently and safely fora long duration.
Fitness
Big ascents and descents of 1000m+ and up to 20km distance on consecutive days. 15kg+ packs. 8+ hours.
Dates & Pricing
Availability
Register your interest or get in touch discuss your goals and receive advice on a pathway to Mount Tasman.
Pricing
$6950 for a 1:1 5 day trip.
Inclusions & Exclusions
Includes: Applicable taxes, NZMGA certified guide, food, mountain accommodation, ground transport from Wanaka.
Excludes: Helicopter costs (see below)
Booking Conditions
Indicative flight costs per group in each direction unless otherwise stated:
– Pioneer Hut: $1200
Prices are subject to change by the aircraft operators.
Gallery
![Wanaka Mountain Guides [] Mount Tasman Climb](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB2aWV3Qm94PSIwIDAgMTAyNCA3NjgiIHdpZHRoPSIxMDI0IiBoZWlnaHQ9Ijc2OCIgeG1sbnM9Imh0dHA6Ly93d3cudzMub3JnLzIwMDAvc3ZnIj48L3N2Zz4=)
