Alpine Rock Climbing
The popular Gertrude Saddle is just the first stop on the trip to Barrier Knob. The summit provides views down to Milford Sound and Lake Adelaide and the massive rock walls of Marian Peak and Sabre Peak. There are a number of bivi spots for the complete Darrans experience. The sunny North and North East faces provides a host of classic routes at a range of grades: ‘Labyrinth’ (22), ‘Daisy’ (20), ‘Forgotten Silver’ (18)
Accessed from Phill’s Biv in the Upper Adelaide Cirque, the North Buttress of Sabre (18) is classic Darrans alpine rock. Just to get here, parties have to travel up and over Barrier Knonb and descend Giffords Crack.
Moirs Mate is the area’s premier alpine rock climbing destination with the west face having a high concentration of classic and modern rock climbs. The traverse from Homer Saddle and the North Ridge provides excellent, exposed scrambling on rough granite. Classic traditional climbs such as ‘Bowen Allen Corner’ (18) to modern mixed classics of ‘Lucky Strike’ (20), ‘Pipe Dreams’ (21), and ‘Finders Keepers’ (21).
For a short fix or a warm-up on the way to or from the bigger objectives, the roadside Shotwell Slabs provides a range of multi-pitch climbs and grades to get you trusting that rubber and friction (16 – 22).
The Sentinel above Adelaide Saddle provides the region’s best lower-grade alpine rock climbing. The area is accessed by a transalpine journey up and over Barrier Knob and a night can be spent at Gill’s Bivi rock by descending Gifford’s Crack to Lake South America and the upper Adelaide Cirque.
Beyond the Homer Tunnel as the winding road descends to Milford Sound are some of NZ’s best sport climbing crags of The Chasm, Babylon, and Little Babylon (18 – 35+). Steep walls and grooves mean that many routes stay dry in the rain, which is useful in Fiordland.
Darrans Mountaineering trips are based from the NZ Alpine Club’s Homer Hut. This is a roadside hut in the Upper Hollyford Valley. There are no high mountain huts in the area so for longer routes, groups will bivi out or in one of the area’s famous rock bivis.
Get in touch or register interest for arrange private trips November to April.
From $1450 / $790 per person per day for 1:1 / 1:2 (minimum 4 days).
Discounts available for NZAC members.
Includes: Applicable taxes, guide fees, compliance costs, transport from Wanaka, mountain food, and accommodation, technical equipment.
‘It was 4 days I’ll never forget! The experiences I had I only want to grow on. I set out to accomplish a task, but I got so much more! You showed me a whole new world with your sport and I can’t thank you enough! I’ve found a new love for this sport and it’s thanks to him! Absolutely exceeded my expectations!!! Thanks Wanaka Mountain Guides!
— Landen, Mitre Peak Ascent
