New Zealand Mountaineering
Darrans Mountaineering
The Darrans mountain range in Fiordland is one our favourite destinations for classic mountaineering and scrambling objectives. From December to the end of the summer season in March, when the loss of seasonal snow begins to cut off access to NZ’s high glaciated peaks, the area offers a variety of alpine outings for all levels of experience. Exposed rock scrambling and alpine rock climbing on the rough compact granite of the Moir massif, Mitre Peak and mountaineering routes of Tutoko and Madeline. Many routes are easily accessible from the Upper Hollyford Valley and Milford Road as day trips or utlising the area’s massive and famous rock bivis.
Mitre Peak
The Iconic Mitre Peak of Milford Sound features heavily in NZ’s tourism marketing. It is the backdrop for the thousands of daily tourists that cruise in the sound below. It’s 1692m high summit is accessed via a narrow ridge provides varied scrambling and massive exposure. Best enjoyed with a camp at the tree line to make the most of the sunrise over the Sound.
Macpherson Talbot Traverse
A classic crossing from the Milford Road to the Gertrude Valley. Ascend the ‘Postman’s’ route to Homer Saddle then Talbots Ladder and onwards to the summit of MacPherson. At one point this was considered as a tourist route to Milford Sound! From Macpherson, the route crosses the glacier to Traverse Pass and then down to Gertrude Saddle and the Gertrude Valley.
Mount Tutoko and Mount Madeline
The mighty Mount T?toko (2723m) and Mount Madeline (2536m), the highest peaks of Fiordland National Park are both accessed from the amazingly situated Turner’s rock bivi. They provide classic, varied and remote mountaineering objectives.
Mount Moir
The traverse from Homer Saddle and the North Ridge of Mount Moir provides excellent, exposed scrambling on compact and rough rock. This long route includes a lot of variety and classic climbing. The summit offers views from Lake Ten Anau to the high peaks of Tutoko and Madeline.
Barrier Knob
The popular Gertrude Valley track and viewpoint of Gertrude Saddle is just the first stop on the trip to Barrier Knob. The summit provides views down to Milford Sound and Lake Adelaide and the massive rock walls of Marian Peak and Sabre Peak. There are a number of bivi spots for the complete Fiordland experience.
The Sentinel
The Sentinel above Adelaide Saddle provides the region’s best lower-grade alpine rock climbing. The area is accessed by a transalpine journey up and over Barrier Knob and a night can be spent at Gill’s Bivi rock by descending Gifford’s Crack to Lake South America and the upper Adelaide Cirque.
Accommodation
Darrans Mountaineering trips are based from the NZ Alpine Club’s Homer Hut. This is a roadside hut in the Upper Hollyford Valley. There are no high mountain huts in the area so for longer routes, groups will bivi out or in one of the area’s famous rock bivis.
Availability
Get in touch or register interest to arrange private dates from November to April.
Pricing
4 day trips from $3000 per person.
Inclusions & Exclusions
Includes: GST, guide fees, compliance costs, technical equipment, transport from W?naka, mountain food and accommodation.
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‘It was 4 days I’ll never forget! The experiences I had I only want to grow on. I set out to accomplish a task, but I got so much more! You showed me a whole new world with your sport and I can’t thank you enough! Absolutely exceeded my expectations!!! Thanks Wanaka Mountain Guides!
— — Landen, Mitre Peak Ascent
