Classic New Zealand Mountaineering
Darrans Mountaineering
Darran Mountaineering is widely regarded as one of New Zealand’s premier destination for classic mountaineering and technical rock scrambling. As seasonal snow recedes from December through March, the Darrans become the ideal alternative to the high glaciated peaks of the Southern Alps, offering a diverse range of alpine outings for all levels of experience.
The draw of the Darrans lies in its geography: massive, compact granite peaks rising directly from the Upper Hollyford Valley. This area is home to some of the most aesthetic rock scrambling and alpine rock climbing in the country, centered on the rough, high-friction diorite of the Moir Massif, the iconic Mitre Peak, and the formidable mountaineering routes of Mount Tutoko and Mount Madeline.
The draw of the Darrans lies in its geography: massive, compact granite peaks rising directly from the Upper Hollyford Valley. This area is home to some of the most aesthetic rock scrambling and alpine rock climbing in the country, centered on the rough, high-friction diorite of the Moir Massif, the iconic Mitre Peak, and the formidable mountaineering routes of Mount Tutoko and Mount Madeline.
Mitre Peak
The Iconic Mitre Peak of Milford Sound features heavily in NZ’s tourism marketing. It is the backdrop for the thousands of daily tourists that cruise in the sound below. It’s 1692m high summit is accessed via a narrow ridge provides varied scrambling and massive exposure. Best enjoyed with a camp at the tree line to make the most of the sunrise over the Sound.
Macpherson Talbot Traverse
A classic crossing from the Milford Road to the Gertrude Valley. Ascend the ‘Postman’s’ route to Homer Saddle then Talbots Ladder and onwards to the summit of MacPherson. At one point this was considered as a tourist route to Milford Sound! From Macpherson, the route crosses the glacier to Traverse Pass and then down to Gertrude Saddle and the Gertrude Valley.
Mount Tutoko and Mount Madeline
The mighty Mount Tutoko (2723m) and Mount Madeline (2536m), the highest peaks of Fiordland National Park are both accessed from the amazingly situated Turner’s rock bivi. They provide classic, varied and remote mountaineering objectives.
Mount Moir
The traverse from Homer Saddle and the North Ridge of Mount Moir provides excellent, exposed scrambling on compact and rough rock. This long route includes a lot of variety and classic climbing. The summit offers views from Lake Ten Anau to the high peaks of Tutoko and Madeline.
Barrier Knob
The popular Gertrude Valley track and viewpoint of Gertrude Saddle is just the first stop on the trip to Barrier Knob. The summit provides views down to Milford Sound and Lake Adelaide and the massive rock walls of Marian Peak and Sabre Peak. There are a number of bivi spots for the complete Fiordland experience.
The Sentinel
The Sentinel above Adelaide Saddle provides the region’s best lower-grade alpine rock climbing. The area is accessed by a transalpine journey up and over Barrier Knob and a night can be spent at Gill’s Bivi rock by descending Gifford’s Crack to Lake South America and the upper Adelaide Cirque.
Accommodation
Darrans Mountaineering trips are based from the New Zealand Alpine Club’s Homer Hut. This is a roadside hut in the Upper Hollyford Valley. There are no high mountain huts in the area so for longer routes, groups will bivi out or in one of the area’s famous rock bivis.
Equipment
Equipment List
For advice on selecting gear for summer ascents, check out our Knowledge Base.
Availability
Get in touch or register interest to arrange private dates from November to April.
Pricing
4 day trips from $3000 per person.
Inclusions & Exclusions
Includes: GST, guide fees, compliance costs, technical equipment, transport from Wanaka, mountain food and accommodation.
Booking Conditions
For Madeline and Tutoko, helicopter flights into Turners Bivi are $1200 in each direction.
Prices are subject to change by the aircraft operators.
‘It was 4 days I’ll never forget! The experiences I had I only want to grow on. I set out to accomplish a task, but I got so much more! You showed me a whole new world with your sport and I can’t thank you enough! Absolutely exceeded my expectations!!! Thanks Wanaka Mountain Guides!
— Landen, Mitre Peak Ascent
