Mount Tutoko Climb

Overview

Standing at 2,723m, Mount Tutoko is the chief of the Darran Mountains and the highest point in Fiordland National Park. While its elevation is lower than the 3,000m giants of the Aoraki / Mount Cook region, a Mount Tutoko climb is widely considered one of the most challenging and rewarding alpine objectives in New Zealand due to its sheer relief, remote location, and the notoriously wild Fiordland weather.The peak is a fortress of steep granite and cascading glaciers. The most sought-after route is the South East Ridge, a world-class alpine line that features three significant rock buttresses guarding the final summit snowfields. The journey often involves utilising the legendary Turner’s Bivouac, a massive rock shelter that serves as a base for summit attempts.

Itinerary

Day 1

From Wanaka it is a 4 hour drive to Milford Sound from where we helicopter into Turners Bivi, a famous, weather proof Biv Rock on the northern slopes of Mount Syme. Also the starting point for Mount Madeline, there are spectacular views of the massive South Face of Tutoko.

Day 2

From the Bivi, the route heads up towards Mount Madeline. There terrain is complex involving travel on snow and compact Darrans rock. As you traverse round from there Madeline Glacier to find a bivi enroute.

Day 3

All being well, the summit is achieved via the classic South East Ridge. This world class alpine line that features three significant rock buttresses guarding the final summit snowfields. Return to the bivi.

Day 4 - 5

Return back to Turners Bivi, stopping here or breaking up the long walk-out, descending to Leader Creek and out the Tutoko Valley to the Milford Road.

Equipment