From Wanaka we head to Mount Cook Village and helicopter into Tasman Saddle Hut, a rustic and historic Hut overlooking the ice fall of the Upper Haupapa / Tasman Glacier.
Classic New Zealand Mountaineering
Elie Du Beaumont Climb
Overview
The Elie de Beaumont climb offers one of the most aesthetic and rewarding high-alpine experiences in the Southern Alps. Standing at 3,109m, it serves as the majestic northern sentinel of the Main Divide. Typically accessed from the head of the Tasman Glacier, providing a classic glaciated mountaineering journey.
Elie de Beaumont provides a staggering perspective down the entire 27km length of the Haupapa / Tasman Glacier toward Aoraki / Mount Cook. While less technical than its neighbour Mount Tasman, the climb requires sustained cramponing and sound glacial navigation, making it a premier objective for mountaineers looking to bag an iconic NZ 3,000m peak.
Elie de Beaumont provides a staggering perspective down the entire 27km length of the Haupapa / Tasman Glacier toward Aoraki / Mount Cook. While less technical than its neighbour Mount Tasman, the climb requires sustained cramponing and sound glacial navigation, making it a premier objective for mountaineers looking to bag an iconic NZ 3,000m peak.
From the hut, you travers towards the Anna Glacier, which sits tucked between Elie de Beaumont and Mount Walter.
This is the most complex part of the climb and can be a maze of large crevasses.
Depending on the season, the schrund at the base of the slope leading to the saddle can be the technical crux. It may require a pitch of steep snow. From here, you follow the ridge along an aesthetic undulating snow arete. There can be sections of firm "blue ice" or rime-crusted rock that require careful cramponing and a steady head for exposure.
Equipment
For advice on selecting gear for summer ascents, check out our Knowledge Base.
Difficulty & Fitness
Technical Skills
Some previous mountaineering experience including crampon and ice axe use.
Fitness
Big ascents and descents of 1000m+ and up to 20km distance on consecutive days. 15kg+ packs. 8+ hours.
Dates & Pricing
Availability
Get in touch or register interest to arrange private trips from November to January.
Pricing
From $5560 for 1:1 4 day trip.
Inclusions & Exclusions
Includes: Applicable taxes, guide fees, food, mountain accommodation, ground transport from Wanaka.
Excludes: Helicopter costs (see below)
Booking Conditions
Indicative flight costs per group in each direction unless otherwise stated:
– Tasman Saddle Hut: $1650
– Darwin Corner: $1400
Prices are subject to change by the aircraft operators.
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