New Zealand 3000m Peaks
Malte Brun Climb
The Malte Brun climb stands as the crown jewel of technical rock ridge soaring in Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park. Rising to 3,040m, the peak’s famous West Ridge offers mountaineering expedition for those seeking breathtaking exposure.
Starting from a high camp on the upper Bonney Glacier, the route provides a sustained and rhythmic ridge climb that culminates in the legendary 'Cheval'—a razor-sharp, knife-edge section that requires a bold 'horse-riding' technique to traverse.
Starting from a high camp on the upper Bonney Glacier, the route provides a sustained and rhythmic ridge climb that culminates in the legendary 'Cheval'—a razor-sharp, knife-edge section that requires a bold 'horse-riding' technique to traverse.
Day 1
From Wanaka, we drive to Mount Cook Village and fly into the mid Haupapa / Tasman Glacier. From here we hike up the Darwin and Bonney, or later in the season via the moraine wall and Turnbull Glacier, to a camp on the Upper Bonney under the slopes of 'Rumdoodle'.
Day 2
On summit day it is an early start to gain the Bonney Rib which brings climbing to the West Ridge. This includes the famous 'cheval' section on the best Greywacke rock around. Return to the Bonney camp.
Days 3 - 4
A contingency day for the summit or descend to a lower camp with the possibility of other smaller summits in the area.
Fly out to Mount Cook Village.
For advice on selecting gear for summer ascents, check out our Knowledge Base.
Technical Skills
Previous mountaineering experience including technical ascents.
Fitness
Big ascents and descents of 1000m+ and up to 20km distance on consecutive days. 15kg+ packs. 8+ hours.
Rock Climbing and Scrambling
Some rescent rock climbing or scrambling Experieince.
Availability
Get in touch or register interest to arrange private trips November - March.
Pricing
From $6950 for 1:1 5 day trip.
Inclusions & Exclusions
Includes: Applicable taxes, guide fees, food, mountain accommodation, ground transport from Wanaka.
Excludes: Helicopter costs (see below)
Booking Conditions
Indicative flight costs per group in each direction unless otherwise stated:
– Tasman Saddle Hut: $1650
– Darwin Corner: $1400
Prices are subject to change by the aircraft operators.
‘Great team at Wanaka Mountain Guides. A well organized, professional team of experienced guides who make each mountain adventure exciting and rewarding. Looking forward to the next adventure in the hills! Highly recommend.’
— Arthur, Private Guiding
