Overview

Mount Madeline Climb. Standing as the second-highest peak in the Darran Mountains, Mount Madeline (2,536m) is a quintessential Fiordland objective. While often overshadowed by its neighbour, Mount Tutoko, Madeline offers a more accessible yet equally rewarding alpine experience. It is a peak of dramatic contrasts—where ancient temperate rainforests meet sheer granite walls and active glaciers.

Mount Madeline is accessed from Turner's Bivi, a classic Darrans all weather rock Bivi. It is a full 10 hour day to hike in and many parties choose to helicopter in from Milford Sound.

Early in the season, Madeline can be ascended directly up the glaciated west face. Once this is no longer passable, the more technical south ridge can be followed. Short rock steps are well protected and possible to abseil on the descent.

Itinerary

Day 1

It is possible to meet in Wanaka or Frankton for the 4 hour drive to the Darran mountains. If helicoptering in, you will head direct to Milford Sound airport.

Day 2

From Turners Bivi, you can receive the route for the next day or warm up on the near by Mount Syme. If walking in, you'll arrive at the bivis and prepare for the climb the following day.

Day 3

An early start for the summit attempt. Following the climb, you might drop down to a lower bivi to split up the walk out.

Day 4

The final walk-out down Leader Creek and the Tutoko Valley. Returning to Wanaka.

Equipment

Equipment List

Difficulty & Fitness

Fitness

Big ascents and descents of 1000m+ and up to 20km distance on consecutive days. 15kg+ packs. 8+ hours.

Technical Skills

Mountaineering experience on other technical peaks.