Many mountaineers aspire to an ascent of Aoraki / Mount Cook, the highest peak in New Zealand. The summit, at 3724m, is not as high as others worldwide. Reaching it involves technical difficulties and objective hazards that make the climb much harder than most people realise.
The standard route ascends the Linda Glacier and through the steeper Summit Rocks to the Ice Cap. The route is a long and serious outing, often taking 20 – 24 hours to return to the hut. The summit day involves over 1700m of ascent and descent. This includes several pitches of mixed snow and rock climbing. The route is also subject to serious risk from crevasses, avalanches, rock and icefall hazards. This exposure requires climbers to move quickly and efficiently through steep and technical terrain.
Over the last few decades, the season when the route is usually in condition has become short,
Later in the season, the glacier deteriorates to the extent that it is not possible to bring exposure to the overhead hazards down to an acceptable level. This period also coincides with New Zealand’s unsettled spring weather so that possible summit days may be infrequent and we can’t guarantee that the ascent may be possible at all during a scheduled trip.
Prerequisites for Aoraki / Mount Cook
Mountaineers wishing to attempt a guided climb of Aoraki / Mount Cook should have a strong technical climbing background. They should be familiar with pitched climbing techniques, have good rope skills and moderate rock, snow and ice climbing experience. Typically, they will have acquired this experience on at least two significant New Zealand or equivalent overseas mountaineering objectives.
With this in mind, we only accept clients for Aoraki / Mount Cook who have climbed with us before. Alternatively, they may have extensive experience from overseas. We’d be looking for a resume of routes that demonstrate a progression of technical climbing skills as well as personal management (nutrition, fatigue, hydration, etc.) on some big mountain outings (1000m+ vertical).
In the popular Chamonix region a selection of preparation routes in the AD+/D grade range would include:
- Tour Ronde
, North Face (short but technical). Aiguille Verte, Verte, Whymper Couloir. - Aiguille Verte,
Couturier Couloir (long and sustained). Mont Maudit , Kuffner Ridge.
In New Zealand, we would recommended ascents such as:
- Mount Aspiring, South West Ridge.
- Mount Dixon, South Ridge.
- Ellie Du Beaumont, Anna Glacier.
The guide on these preparation ascents would then be able to suggest what further training may be required before being ready for Aoraki / Mount Cook. This advice may include specialist climbing courses (such as winter ice climbing) or further ascents.
Those interested in working towards the goal of summiting Mount Cook should expect a multi-year commitment and a progression of other ascents and courses.
See Also
